Artur, Robert and Don are back from C3. Following only 18 days on Broad Peak, the team is ready for a summit push: after the storm, that is.

Meanwhile, heavy snow on the trail is complicating the Makalu approach. Porters refuse to carry loads so plan B is up.

Broad Peak: Team back from C3 – ready to face the storm, and then attempt the summit

 
Artur Hajzer on winter Broad Peak with Marble Peak in back.

Artur and Robert departing from Broad Peak’s C3.

"We’re Back from Camp 3 at 7000 meters, resting in base camp and waiting for a spell of good weather to try for…dare I say," Don Bowie reported earlier today. "In 18 days since our arrival, we have spent 10 days of activity on the mountain – a remarkable feat for even a summer expedition. We take our fast progress in stride, committed to the long haul, knowing that long spells of bad weather and other challenges lay ahead."

"We now face the first long spell of stormy weather – a time for rest, replenishment, and some base camp musings and ridiculousness – so expect a few of these over the next week or two," the Canadian climber added. "

Don’s thoughts on winter 8000ers climbing

A seasoned Himalayan climber on his first winter expedition to a Baltoro giant, Don reflects on what it means to climb in Karakoram winter:

"Personally, I feel content, but most of all, I feel grateful to be on another expedition in the high mountains," Don stated. "This is one of many winter trips for me, but my first expedition to the big mountains in the cold season. Some things are different than climbing in the Karakoram in summer, others are the same. The most obvious differences are the cold and the remoteness. It is both amazing and daunting to have the Baltoro all to ourselves."

"Climbing between the higher camps, I find that my fingers and toes go numb quite frequently, losing sensation sometimes for an hour or more. But, I am not climbing using my warmest gear: I’m saving my down suit for the next push to the summit."

"The wind bites immediately at any exposed skin, and I’ve already suffered a little black line of frost nip on my cheek and nose – which should peel off in a few days. Call it my yearly exfoliation, if not a low-class spa treatment. Ahh, the measures we go to for good skin."

"One of the oddest things I have experienced on this winter expedition is the phenomenon of relative comfort, and how this changes with the immediate environment. After being spat out of the hovering MI-17 (helicopter) on December 23rd, I remember looking at the desolate, windblown, frozen moraine and thinking, "Wow! This is home for a few months. Yeesh!"

"However, after a few weeks of climbing, I now peer down from thousands of feet above, onto that very same spot which our base camp now inhabits, and think, "Hmmm. It would be nice to be in cozy base camp right now." Cozy base camp? Who in their right mind would look at this place and think "cozy"?"

We are not 3 – but 8 team members

Finally, a word about lesser known team members. "I want to make more clear just exactly who ‘we’ are," Don wrote. "Most of our images and videos have contained only a portion of the team, for we are not 3, we are 8. Duties on the mountain have been split between 2 or 3 groups at a time, with Artur, Robert, and I climbing together – hence the photos and videos of us. But here are the other team members, whose contributions match or exceed any task our team of 3 has performed."

"These men, as part of the team, carry loads and establish the route as our equals. They are strong, experienced, and keen to succeed. We consider these men our partners: Qadrat Amin, from Shimshal, age 39; Amin Ullah, from Shimshal, age 36; Muhammad Ali, from Sadpara, age 32; Muhammad Taqi, from Hushe, age 28 and Didar (Cook Extraordinaire), from Hunza, age 30."

Winter Makalu – Simone Moro: The usual winter nightmare

In spite of problems with his Thuraya modem, Simone managed to send this cool pic of Makalu from Chukung Ri’s summit last weekend.

"A winter expedition is always a nightmare – always!!," Simone Moro vented on Saturday. "The porters have stopped carrying loads to Makalu BC and refuse to continue. Due to one meter of fresh snow and difficulties in braking trail, they have decided to run back!"

"First I tried to convince the porters to go ahead by offering more money and reducing the time of daily work, but I got no positive result, "Simone added. "Then I tried at least to make sure they were retreating with the loads – not empty-handed. Should they leave all the gear abandoned in the forest, everything would be lost and the expedition over."

"Six hours later I was told over the sat-phone that the loads were safe in Kauma village. Now I’m thinking of a possible solution: In Nepal there are only 2 big helicopters and they are always busy. Also, their prices are crazy…"

Chopper airlift – an expensive B-plan

Back in Namche earlier today, Simone updated on the situation. "We are going back to Kathmandu where our logistics outfitter is trying to charter a big helicopter to Tashigaon (where our expedition loads are with our cook and kitchen boy) and then to Makalu BC."

Moro also reported problems with his comms equipment. "Since the beginning of the expedition I’m fighting with my new modem Thuraya," he said. "I can log in to the internet for only 5-10 minutes; then the modem stop working. That time is just enough to quickly send daily reports- but no videos, since they take a longer time to upload." Simone hoped Thuraya crew would solve the problem as soon as possible.