Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct south face, in the Khumbu Region of Nepal.
The two Americans, who last year made a daring first ascent of Kang Nachugo in the Rolwaling Valley, climbed alpine style over 6 days following a gigantic swath of ice directly up the 1700m face which weaved a way between rock bands and two ice cliffs high on the face.
After an initial period spent acclimatising the duo set off on April 20 and navigated dangerously to the base of the wall proper. Simul climbing where possible, early the next morning the two embarked on what they describe as being their hardest day in the mountains to date. Dodging rock and simul climbing wherever possible, after 21 hours on the trot they finally managed to establish Camp 1 at 6500m.
Dawn broke with stable weather and the two continued as the terrain changed from ice to ice to their favourite terrain: steep unconsolidated snow flutings which eventually led to the summit. They camped here and the next day attempted, unsuccessfully, to traverse along the corniced ridge to the other nearby summits in the Lulang massif but eventually decided to play safe rather than sorry and, after another night on the summit, initiated the descent. They down climbed the first section, then made twenty 60-meter raps (using V-threads only and leaving absolutely no gear in-situ) before downc limbing an dodging rock fall once more to reach the safety of their base camp on April 25.
